Term Definition
Lamella 3 likes
A structural part of wood, metal, or reinforced concrete crisscrossed to create a vault; curved vaults and domes have been built of wood, steel, and concrete lamellas
Lamina 1 like
The layers of substance in a laminate
Laminar Scale 4 likes
Rust creation in heavy layers
Laminate 3 likes
Produce a product by bonding together two or more layers of substances, such as a plastic laminate
Laminate, Paper-Base 2 likes
A multilayer panel produced by compacting resin-impregnated paper sheets into a solid mass
Laminated Glass 3 likes
A glazing substance of exterior layers of glass laminated to and enclosing an inside transparent plastic layer; employed in car windshields and bulletproof glass
Laminated Plastic 1 like
See Plastic Laminate
Laminated Rubber 0 likes
Numerous layers of rubber fused together with adhesive under pressure
Laminated Shingles 0 likes
Shingles that are shake due to additional layers or tabs; also called Architectural Shingles or Three-dimensional Shingles
Laminated Timber 1 like
A construction created by bonding veneer or lumber layers with an adhesive so that the grain is basically parallel
Laminated Wallboard 4 likes
Two or more layers of gypsum board bonded together with an adhesive
Laminated Wood 1 like
A product produced by bonding veneer or lumber layers with an adhesive so that the grain is usually parallel
Laminating 1 like
Bonding together two or more layers of substances
Laminating Compound 1 like
Regular joint compound or another cementitious material employed to join two or more layers of gypsum board together
Lamination 0 likes
The fusing of layers of material with adhesive
Application of two or more layers of gypsum board
Lamp, Incandescent2 likes
lamp incandescent
See Incandescent Lamp
Lamp, Steri 1 like
See Steri Lamp
Lampback 0 likes
Pigment produced by burning coal tar distillates with insufficient air; not true black
Lampholder1 like
An apparatus that supports an electric lamp and connects it to the circuit conductors
Lanai 0 likes
Porch, veranda, or enclosed patio
Land 4 likes
Earth’s surface containing natural resources
Part of the earth’s solid surface delineated by boundaries or ownership; can be privately or publicly owned
Land Contract 0 likes
A contract for sale of land where title passes to the purchaser when all, or a definite quantity of payments have been made; also called Contract of Sale
Land Plaster 1 like
Roughly ground natural gypsum employed to condition soil
Land Residual 0 likes
A real estate appraisal procedure where a reasonable return on the improvements is first subtracted from the income, the balance is associated with the land
Land Surveyor 0 likes
A person who surveys land
Landing 2 likes
A platform between flights of stairs or at the end of a flight of stairs frequently used when stairs change direction; generally no less than 3 feet by 3 feet
Landing Terrazzo 1 like
A staircase landing with terrazzo tile installed on the surface
Landlord 1 like
The owner of property who rents it to a tenant
Landscape 3 likes
Natural scenery
Improving a site by changing the terrain, planting trees, shrubs, ground cover, and adding hardscape
Landscape Architect 0 likes
A professional who designs the arrangement of land including vehicle and pedestrian roadways and the planting of ground cover, plants, and trees
Landscape Timber 0 likes
Large, treated lumber lengths for decoration, also performing as soil erosion barriers and retaining wall parts
Lane Joint Cracks 2 likes
Longitudinal separations between two paving lanes caused by a weak seam between adjoining applications in the pavement paths
Langly 1 like
Solar radiation measurement that equals 1 calorie per square centimeter
Lantern1 like
An elevated structure glazed to let in light on a roof
Product of the day

How to Fix Plumbing Noises In Your Home

plumbing fiberglass insulationTo diagnose loud plumbing, you must first determine whether the unwanted sounds occur on the system's inlet side - in other words, when water is turned on - or on the drain side. Noises on the inlet side have various causes: excessive water pressure, worn valve and faucet parts, poorly connected pumps or other appliances, incorrectly placed pipe fasteners, and plumbing runs with excessive tight bends or other restrictions. Noises on the drain side usually originate from poor location or, as with some inlet side noise, a layout with tight bends.


Hissing that occurs when a faucet is opened slightly generally signals excessive water pressure. Consult your local water company if you suspect this problem. They will tell you about the water pressure in your area and if necessary, can install a pressure reducing valve on the incoming water supply pipe.


Thudding, often accompanied by shuddering pipes when a faucet or appliance valve is turned off, is a condition called water hammer. The noise and vibration are caused by the reverberating wave of pressure in the water, which suddenly has no place to go. Sometimes opening a valve that discharges water quickly into a section of piping with a restriction, elbow, or tee fitting can produce the same condition. Water hammer can usually be fixed by installing fittings called air chambers or shock absorbers in the plumbing to which the problem valves or faucets are connected. These devices permit the shock wave produced by the halted flow of water to dissipate in the air, which unlike water, is compressible. Older plumbing systems may have short vertical sections of capped pipe behind walls on faucet runs for the same purpose; these can eventually fill with water, reducing or destroying their effectiveness. The solution is to drain the water system by turning off the main water supply valve and opening all faucets. Then open the main supply valve and close the faucets one at a time, starting with the faucet closest to the valve and ending with the one furthest away.

Chattering or Screeching

Intense chattering or screeching that occurs when a valve or faucet is turned on, and that usually disappears when the fitting is fully open, signals loose or defective internal parts. The solution is to replace the valve or faucet with a new one. Pumps and appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers can transfer motor noise to pipes if they are improperly connected. Link these items to plumbing with plastic or rubber hoses - never rigid pipe - to separate them.

Other Inlet Side Noises

Creaking, squeaking, scratching, snapping, and tapping are usually caused by the expansion or contraction of pipes, generally copper ones supplying hot water. The sounds occur as the pipes slide against loose fasteners or strike nearby house framing. You can often pinpoint the location of the problem if the pipes are exposed; just follow the sound when the pipes are making noise. Most likely, you will discover a loose pipe hanger or an area where pipes lie so close to floor joists or other framing pieces that they clatter against them. Attaching foam pipe insulation around the pipes at the point of contact should resolve the problem. Be sure straps and hangers are secure and provide sufficient support. Where possible, pipe fasteners should be connected to large structural elements such as foundation walls instead of framing; doing this reduces the transmission of vibrations from plumbing to surfaces that can amplify and transfer them. If attaching fasteners to framing is unavoidable, wrap pipes with insulation or other resilient material where they contact fasteners, and sandwich the ends of new fasteners between rubber washers when installing them. Correcting plumbing runs that suffer from flow-restricting tight or numerous bends is a last resort that should be performed only after consulting a skilled plumbing contractor. Unfortunately, this situation is common in older homes that may not have been built with indoor plumbing or that have been through several remodels, particularly by unprofessional contractors.

Drainpipe Noise

On the drain side of plumbing, the main goals are to eradicate surfaces that can be struck by falling or rushing water and to insulate pipes to contain unavoidable sounds. In new construction, bathtubs, shower stalls, toilets, and wall-mounted sinks and basins should be set on or against resilient under-layments to lower the transmission of sound through them. Water-saving toilets and faucets are less noisy than conventional models; install them instead of older types even if codes in your area still allow older fixtures. Drainpipes that do not run vertically to the basement or that branch into horizontal pipe runs supported at floor joists or other framing present especially troubling noise problems. These pipes are large enough to radiate substantial vibration; they also carry significant amounts of water, which makes the situation worse. In new construction, use cast-iron soil pipes (the large pipes that drain toilets) if you can afford them. Their immense size contains much of the noise made by water traversing them. Also, avoid routing drainpipes in walls shared with bedrooms and rooms where people gather. Walls containing drainpipes should be soundproofed as stated earlier, using double panels of sound-insulating fiberboard and wallboard. Pipes can be wrapped with special fiberglass insulation made for the purpose; these pipes have an impervious vinyl skin that sometimes containing lead. Results are not always acceptable.

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